Day 2 – Postscript

Dinner and the Yellow Jersey

Monday evening’s dinner deserves an update of its own. We went from the hotel by van to an “Agro Turizma,” – a working agricultural venture which specializes in demonstrating local agricultural traditions and providing traditional meals. (This is somewhat different from the Italian Agroturismo facilities that I have seen where lodging is a common feature, as well.) Our host spent a lot of time explaining the making of various grappas – both fig based and grape based. The varieties he offered for sampling included walnut, rose, honey, fig, cherry, and others.

The entire group

Our three guides -- Christina, Silvija, and Ante

The meal (another lengthy affair) started with plates of cheeses (sheep’s milk based) and cured hams. This course was followed by a delicious soup, consisting of barley and some beans similar to chickpeas. The main course was the meat dish prepared in the “iron bell.” We all trooped into the kitchen to see the huge cooking/serving pans removed from the coals in the oven in which they had been slowly roasting. We had enormous quantities of chicken, veal, potatoes, onions and carrots in a delicious blend of flavors. The meat was cooked to the point where it just fell off the bones.

 

Dinner fresh out of the "iron bell"

During a lull the proceedings, George announced the continuation of a tradition developed on one of his earlier rides. He produced a yellow “jersey” to be awarded each evening to the first rider to have finished that day. (Our daily rides are not races – they offer lots of opportunity for picture taking, coffee drinking, and simply enjoying the ride. Nevertheless, someone has to finish first.)  He you see me in my yellow jersey. Look closely because it may not happen again.

The Yellow Jersey

Following the main course, we adjourned to a patio area where we had a cherry filled pastry for dessert, as we awaited the vans for the ride back to the hotel.

As I write this before breakfast on Tuesday, I see out the window that we appear to be in store for another beautiful day.

Day 2 -- Skradin to Primosten

Via Renaissance Sibenik

Despite the late night last evening, I awoke at 5 am and despaired of getting back to sleep. Next thing I knew, the alarm clock was letting me know that it was 7 and time to get up. Breakfast was at 7:30 followed by the briefing on the day's ride. Since it was our first daily briefing, it was a little longer than usual, but we were on the road around 10 o'clock.

This is really me!

We started with a gentle climb (probably 3-5 % grade) for about two and a half miles, and then had some easy biking to the town UNESCO world heritage city of Sibenik where we dallied over coffee and then wandered through the old city. This city is unique among other coastal towns in Croatia in that it is the oldest town built by native Croats instead of Venetians, Byzantines, Hungarians or Austrians. I stopped in the Gothic Cathedral of St. Jakov (St. Jacob, or St. James) and then wandered through the narrow medieval streets. Old though they may be, they were full of small boutiques with expensive wares. At one of the touristy souvenier shops, however, I was able to get an inexpensive pair of goggles since I had forgotten to bring my cycling glasses.

From Cybenik on, we hugged the coast on the gently rolling highway, leaving the main road several times for smaller roads that passed through tiny villages. Though we didn't see many people at mid-day, fishing did appear to be an important part of the local economy. In one of these small villages was our suggested lunch stop, which I completely missed. Most of the others found it, although several decided that it was "too upscale" for a casual bike ride lunch, and opted to continue on to our destination, Primosten. 

Hotel Zora

We are staying at a very nice beach resort hotel, so I took the obligatory (a self-imposed obligation) dip in the Adriatic.It was very cold, so I didn't stay in long. After returning to the room I did some laundry in the sink simply because I didn't want to pass up the opportunity to hang up clothes to dry on the balcony railing in the perfect weather. They should be dry before we leave for supper in about 40 minutes.

It was an easy day, with about thirty miles of cycling. The roads are well paved and remarkably free of broken glass and other debris. For the most part, they have virtually no shoulders, but we haven't seen a lot of traffic and the cars have given us plenty of room when passing.

Day 1 -- Skradin Bay and Bicycle Fitting

After a solid 24 hours of traveling, from San Francisco, to Amsterdam, to Berlin, and finally to Split, Croatia, I arrived at my hotel in Split around 6:30 pm.  It is a charming city which, unfortunately, I will not have much time to explore since the tour leaves the hotel at 9:20 in the morning. So, I will jump ahead to Sunday, and Day 1 of the tour.

I had breakfast on the patio outside the hotel, meeting several of the other riders who will be on the tour. There are to be 14 of us all together. Promptly at 9:20 we met with Sylvia, one of our guides, and loaded our luggage on a large comfortable motor coach for a one and a half hour ride through beautiful countryside (in perfect weather) to Skradin where our hotel is located.  

Bicycle fitting is scheduled for later this afternoon. After checking into our hotel, we all boarded a boat for a short excursion to the national park of Skradinski Buk to visit the waterfalls and enjoy the scenery.

Approaching Skradin by boat

After a light lunch at a cafe in the park, we returned by boat to Skradin and proceeded to get our bikes fitted. The bikes are the same as the one that I rode in Spain last year -- titanium frames by Van Nicholas.I enjoyed the bike very much last year, and on the basis of a short eight mile test ride today, I think that I will be very content again this year. The suggested test ride was only eight kilometers, but I overshot the turnaround point and did about 13. Still a very short ride, but it felt good to get in the saddle, even though I have only been off the bike since Thursday.  Somehow, an airplane seat just does not give the same satisfaction as a bike saddle!

While out on the test ride, and having realized that I had deviated from the suggested route, I decided to look on Google Maps to see if I could devise an alternate loop ride back to Skradin.  Google Maps has not gotten around to this part of Croatia yet. I did use Strava to record the ride and it has been posted on my Strava page. I only started using Strava about a week ago, so this is very much a test of that tool for recording my ride data. (I also have my Garmin with me, and am uploading that data to the laptop.)

(Later) -- Just got back from dinner. It started at 7:30, and we finished about 10:30. Three hours! Can't do that every night. We started with steamed mussels and local clams.  Then we had a wonderful risotto that took over seven hours to prepare (it was made with veal which was simmered for all that time with a variety of herbs and spices before the rice was added). Next was a main course of grilled tuna with a side dish of kale and potatoes. The finale was a cream filled pastry with lots of fresh cherries as an accompaniment.As the fourteen of us (plus three guides) got to know each other, we had a most enjoyable evening. Breakfast is at 7:30 so it is time to sign off.

APRIL 2013 -- This year I will be cycling in Croatia, along the Dalmatian Coast. I leave on May 10, and start cycling on May 12th. I will endeavor to post updates and photos whenever I have internet access. More to come ....

Farewell Dinner

Farewell dinner

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Cathedral at night

Last evening's farewell dinner deserves a post of its own. I made a point of writing down the names of all the courses as they were served so that I would not forget any. We walked as a group from our hotel to the restaurant which is fairly close to the cathedral (as is our hotel).

At first, of course, we had bread ("pan Gallego) -- the wonderful, crusty Gallician bread that we have been enjoying for the last few days. There was a good olive oil for dipping. Along with the bread, there were platters of three different cheeses, all delicious.

Then the courses starting coming in earnest. In almost all cases, they served more than our adventurous group could finish.First to arrive were "empanadas gallenas," filled with cod, tomato and various other goodies. Next was the salad, with lettuce, tomato, tuna, asparagus, egg, and carrots.

This was followed by platters of "pulpos," octopus similar to what we had for lunch in Melide yesterday, but frankly not as good. Perhaps that is why the pulperia in Melide is a must for pilgrims passing through.

"Gambas," huge shrimp served whole (head and all) were next. They, too, were delicious. Most of us Americans are unused to having our shrimp served with the head on and were not as adventurous as our guides in sucking the flavor out of the heads.

Meanwhile, the true Spanish flavor of the occasion was enhanced by the fact that Spain was beating Ireland in "futbol" (soccer). The game was being shown on television in several locations throughout the restaurant and a loud cheer went up at every Spanish goal. The red and white wines which were flowing also enhanced the festive mood.

Scallops

Of course, the food kept coming. Calimari was next, and it was the best calimari most of us have ever had. It was very lightly dusted with flour and fried to tender perfection. After the calimari, came scallops served on the half shell. Again, for most of us Americans, this was a new experience since we can only buy scallops at home that have already been removed from the shell.

Navajas

Moving on to the next course, several platters of mussels were brought out. These were followed by "navajas," or razor clams. These long, thin clams were entirely new to me. The word "navaja" means penknife or razor.

Next was "tortilla de esparrrago" -- similar to the breakfast omelet with potatoes that we have frequently been served, this egg omelet had fresh white asparagus.

Next came a choice of desserts -- either flan (which I chose), or cheesecake or tarta de Santiago (which we had previously tried for Larry's birthday).

Guy with flan, Belen's tarta in foreground

All good things must come to an end, and this meal ended with farewells from our guides, Philipp, Belen and Enrico, to us, and from us to them. During these final moments we were offered a selection of coffees and local liqueurs. We had left the hoetel at eight, and did not finish the meal until just before midnight!

Philipp and Enrico said goodbye as they had to leave very early this morning to drive the van and bicycles to the next tour starting point (I forget which city, but I know that they have an eleven hour drive). Belen had breakfast with us this morning and then she heads home for a week, after which she will start her second camino! Larry and Pat left for an early plane. Which leaves Mary Kay and Bob, Nancy and Mike, and I to enjoy hour last few hours in Santiago, including the Pilgrim's Mass at noon. Tonight I fly to Madrid, and back to San Francisco tomorrow.

Santiago at last

Santiago at last

As you can see from the photo above, we have arrived safely in Santiago. We are standing in front of the cathedaral (partially obscured by a few raindrops on the camera lens).

Today's ride was only 25 miles, with some modest climbing. However, we had "Seattle rain" most of the morning, necessitating rain gear most of the time. We grouped at a cafe a couple of miles from the Cathedral so that we could navigate the city as a group.

Our first stop was the pilgrim office where we produced our stamped passports, and received our compostelanas -- the certificates (in Latin, including our names) attesting to our successfully completing the pilgrimage along the way of Saint James -- the Camino de Santiago. We then had a brief visit to the cathedral, including a walk behind and above the altar where we could touch the statue of St. James which adorns the altar, and then below the altar where St. James is entombed.

We then adjourned to the hotel (nice and modern again), said good bye to the bicycles that served us so well and prepared for our final day together. We have a group dinner tonight and then go our separate ways after breakfast tomorrow. For most of us, tomorrow will include the Pilgrim's Mass at noon (Larry and Pat have an early flight tomorrow, so they biked to Santiago earlier than the rest of us, and attended the Pilgrim's Mass today).

I shall do a final in-country posting tomorrow, and probably at least one more "wrap up" that I will prepare on the plane home.

Monteroso to Touro -- Wednesday June 13, 2012

Probably the best day yet. I have to say “probably” because each day has been special with several great moments. But today had it all, with great weather, beautiful scenery, roads that seemed to push the bicycle along, and a very special lunch.

Mary Kay

Pat

Because it was a short day, we enjoyed a late breakfast and a leisurely pace, mostly along small country roads. Our lunch target was Melide, and we were concerned about arriving too early because yesterday’s extended right took several miles off what would normally be today’s ride. Normally it is hard to find a place serving lunch before noon (often much later). But when we hit Melide shortly after 11, our target, the Pulperia Ezequiel, was open and starting to handle the luncheon rush.

 

What’s the big attraction, you ask? Octopus! Pulpo is octopus, and pulperia is a restaurant specializing in octopus. Somewhow, all the pilgrims hear about this place, and all find it a “must.” Even those who have never tasted octopus try it and fall in love with the delicious, tender morsels. Trust me, when you are in Melide, you must eat here and try it.

 

After lunch, we had three short climbs through increasingly rural farm country, until we arrived at our lodging for the evening, a traditional country house (similar to a B&B). This one is a restored manor house from the 16^th Century. It has a small chapel (apparently no longer used) which is now being used to store our bikes.

Pazo de Andeage -- our home tonight

Tomorrow’s ride will be even shorter, and will take us to our final destination – Santiago.