Cycling Cuba 2018 -- Part 8

Wednesday February 14, 2018 – Viñales

Today is billed as a rest day, but that only means that we will not be cycling. We shuttle through Viñales to the spot where we will begin our hike in the national park. Along the way, we stop to drop off laundry with a contact of Alex.

Another Magote -- "Coco Solo"

We begin the hike along a dirt road and pass all manner of vehicles including wooden sleds pulled by oxen, horses with tourists aboard, motor scooters and taxis.

Our first stop was another tobacco farm, much smaller than the one we saw yesterday. The farmer has a maximum of five employees, but usually manages with only two. We had similar demonstrations to those of yesterday, but on a smaller scale. This farmer, like others in private enterprise, is obligated to provide 95% of his production to the government. He can keep 5% for “personal use,” meaning that he can sell his hand-rolled cigars to tourists like us.

Coffee before the demonstration

There is some confusion in what we are being told – does the farmer have to give 95% or 98% to the government? It doesn’t really make a difference – 95+5, and 98+5, both equal 100% according to the math of the region. The farmer will get his 5%. I bought ten of this farmer’s cigars, primarily to help him, rather than to acquire cigars that I will not smoke. I am sure that I will find friends that will be happy to have one. Our host was also selling coffee beans from his farm.

When in Rome ....

After leaving the farm, we hike through some terrain that was a little more rugged and arrived at an organic farm where we had lunch. We began with piña coladas, with the bottle of rum passed down the table to be added as desired. Then we had an excellent soup, followed by the best pork and chicken so far this trip. There were also deep-fried chunks of tuna which were not to my taste.

After lunch, Alex guided us around the farm. We learned that banana trees produce only one bunch per year. After harvest, they are cut off about a foot from the ground. The following year they will grow to full size producing one more bunch.

On the way back to the hotel we picked up our laundry. My bill was only $5.40 for a few days worth of clothes. Should not have to do any more this trip.

We return to the hotel. They have money today, so I exchange more than I expect to need for the balance of the trip. The surplus can be used as part of the tip for the guides, or can be exchanged at the airport.

The big surprise of the day is that the WiFi is sufficiently strong that I can make an internet phone call to Kathleen. Happy Valentine’s Day! Up until now, the WiFi has been adequate for email and internet browsing, but not good enough to support VOIP phone calls.

 We meet at six to drink some wine that Lisa has had stored on the bus for a few days. Dinner is on our own this evening. A few people wander back into Viñales (for pizza, as it turns out), but I and several others eat at the hotel. The buffet-style dinner is included in the price of our room.

Cycling Cuba 2018 -- Part 7

Monday February 12, 2018 – Soroa to San Diego Los Baños and Pinar del Rio

Today was a great and easy day of cycling, generally downhill. We had a good lunch (I chose the grilled chicken) at a restaurant in San Diego de los Baños, where we boarded the bus for the remainder of the trip to Pinar del Rio.

While Lisa checked us in to the hotel, we went to visit a workshop for Down’s Sydrome teens and adults. We watched a dance performance by several of the students, heard a short talk about the efforts of the workshop, and then danced with the students who were not bashful about pulling us to our feet to join in. We had great fun, and then spent some time looking at the artwork that several of the students had done. Several of us bought prints.

We checked into our hotel, which might be the nicest of the trip so far, except that my toilet won’t flush. I can’t take a shower because I am waiting for maintenance. Finally, I take a walk through the city and take some more photos. I return to the hotel and find that the toilet still has not been fixed. But Bill tells me that they had come to his room to fix his perfectly functioning toilet. So, back to the front desk where they dispatch maintenance once again. This time the maintenance man followed me to the room, checked the problem and set off to get repair parts. With that problem fixed, I tried to take a shower and discovered that I had no hot water. In fact, I never did get hot water in this hotel, even though Bill and Diane in the very next room had plenty of very hot water.

I tried to exchange money at the front desk, but they were all out of cash. They would have more tomorrow at 9:00 – well after we would have left the hotel. This was a problem I encountered more than once on this trip – the lesson is that when you are able to purchase CUCs, purchase more than you think you will need. Dinner was at the hotel tonight, and not particularly memorable. I revise my opinion and conclude that the best hotel of the trip was the one in Cienfuegos.

Tuesday February 13, 2018 – Pinar to Viñales

We depart the hotel by bus and travel to the picturesque town of Viñales. Our first stop is a large tobacco farm, where we have a delightful outdoor breakfast before starting our tour of the farm.  The tour was fascinating. First we went into shade tents where the choice cigar wrapper leaves are grown. We learned that they start picking the leaves from the bottom of the plant, taking only two or three at a time, and waiting a few more days before picking more. We saw the unshaded fields where the filler tobacco is grown, and then visited the drying barn. The culmination of the visit was watching the cigar roller demonstrate his craft. He then lit two cigars which we passed around and got a few interesting photos.

Lisa and Alex -- my favorite photo of he trip.

We had to shuttle a little further before we started cycling, so it was very hot when we started. The road had several bridges in such bad condition that we had to walk our bikes across them. The bus had to take a different route to meet up with us later in the day. So, we had a different support vehicle – another of the vintage cars, this one pulling a small trailer for those who might want to get off the bike and hitch a ride. We each had sandwiches to eat along the way, and were supposed to be able to get more water from the support vehicle. After the first water refill, I never saw the support vehicle again (I was ahead of him the whole time.) Fortunately, I ran into Aylan who had extra water bottles and was able to give me a needed refill. Today’s road was very rough, and I was very glad to have finished and to find cold cerveza waiting for me.

 

In this region we saw several characteristic magotes, or large limestone bluffs abruptly arising from the plains.

Tonight’s hotel is really first rate. I even have a nice porch swing outside my room facing the pool. WiFi here is excellent. We will be in this hotel for two nights.